Plant Guide: Fritillaria

The name fritillaria comes from the Latin fritillus, meaning dice box, because the chequered pattern on the flowers of some species resembles the board used in many dice games. There are around 100 species of this striking bulbous plant, related to lilies, though only a small number are grown as garden plants. The shape and colour of the flowers vary considerably from species to species, and some are more fascinating than beautiful. The flowers are usually bell-shaped and hang down, appearing on leafy stems.
Height varies greatly, from low-growing rock garden plants such as the 10–15 cm tall Fritillaria michailovskyi to the stately, imposing crown imperials (F. imperialis), which can grow more than 1 m tall.
Many fritillaries, especially the crown imperial, give off a penetrating "foxy" smell that some people find unpleasant. All parts of the plant, including the bulbs, have this scent.
Use These plants, and the crown imperial in particular, deserve a prominent spot in the spring garden. Sometimes they form an eye-catching feature in a bulb bed, but more often they are included in a mixed border with other bulbs and perennials. To show them off at their best, plant a number of the same species together, since a single specimen doesn't create that same impressive effect. Species that multiply easily, such as the snake's head fritillary, can be left to naturalise in partial shade. All species can also be grown in pots, though most do better in open ground.
Availability Crown imperials and snake's head fritillaries are widely available at garden centres, but for some of the other species you're probably better off going to a specialist bulb grower.
VARIETIES
F. imperialis The best-known species is the majestic crown imperial, F. imperialis, with a ring of orange, yellow or red bell-shaped flowers beneath a crown of green leaves, on stems 50–100 cm tall.
F. meleagris The snake's head fritillary, F. meleagris, occurs in the wild in European hay meadows and is one of the easiest species to grow. The chequered flowers are greenish, purple, dark red or white.
Others Among the many other species worth growing are F. acmopetala, with bell-shaped greenish-brown flowers; F. biflora 'Martha Roderick', with brown-streaked creamy-white flowers; F. camschatcensis, with deep purple, almost black flowers; F. michailovskyi, with yellow-tipped purple flower bells; F. pallidiflora, with pale yellow flowers veined in green or dark red; F. persica, with deep plum-purple flowers; F. pontica, with greenish flower bells; and F. pyrenaica, whose flowers are dark red-purple with green spots on the outside and purple-and-green chequered on the inside.
GROWING CONDITIONS
Position Fritillarias grow best in light shade, or in a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade. Some species tolerate full sun. All species appreciate shelter from the wind.
Location Fritillarias can be planted in beds or borders, in rock gardens, or in pots, depending on the species. F. meleagris is suited to naturalising in grass. Make sure the soil is well-draining and rich in organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted cow manure. Apply a mulch layer around the plants. F. meleagris, more than the other species, needs soil that doesn't dry out too quickly.
GROWING
Planting The lily-like bulbs dry out quickly and should be planted as soon as they become available. Planting depth ranges from 5–20 cm, depending on the species. Place the large bulbs of the crown imperial on their side on a layer of sand so that no water collects in the central hollow.
Feeding Apply some fertiliser after flowering, or some granular feed in spring at the start of the growing season. Water during dry weather while the plants are growing, especially before flowering.
Problems In poorly draining soil, the bulbs can rot.
FLOWERING
Season From mid-spring to early summer.
Cutting Although the flowers stay reasonably fresh as cut flowers, they are rarely used this way because of the unpleasant smell of some species. Unfortunately, the crown imperial is one of them. But they are so beautiful in the garden that this is where you can enjoy them best.
AFTER FLOWERING
Care Once the plants have finished flowering, you can remove the flower stems, but with the snake's head fritillary leave the flowers in place so they can set seed. It's best to leave the bulbs in the ground. Dense clumps can be divided in summer if needed and replanted straight away.
AT A GLANCE
Distinctive bulbous plants in all kinds of sizes and shapes, with striking, hanging bell-shaped flowers.
| Month | Status |
|---|---|
| Jan | – |
| Feb | – |
| Mar | – |
| Apr | flowering |
| May | flowering |
| Jun | – |
| Jul | – |
| Aug | – |
| Sept | planting |
| Oct | planting |
| Nov | planting |
| Dec | planting |
Recommended varieties:
- Fritillaria biflora: 'Martha Roderick'
- Fritillaria imperialis: 'Lutea', 'Rubra Maxima', 'Prolifera', 'The Premier'
- Fritillaria persica: 'Adiyaman'
Plant Guide
In this Spring and Summer Flowering Guide, we have compiled all spring- and summer-flowering bulb plants from A to Z, presented in two clear and practical tables: one for spring bloomers and one for summer bloomers.
| Spring Planting | Autumn Planting |
|---|---|
| Amaryllis | Allium |
| Alstroemeria | Anemone |
| Begonnia | Camassia |
| Canna | Chionodoxa |
| Dahlia | Colchicum |
| Agapanthus | Crocus |
| Achimenes | Fritillaria |
| Galanthus | |
| Hyacinthus | |
| Iris | |
| Muscari | |
| Narcissen | |
| Triteleia | |
| Tulipa |